{"id":2665,"date":"2015-09-16T12:00:47","date_gmt":"2015-09-16T11:00:47","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/?p=2665"},"modified":"2022-01-12T10:48:10","modified_gmt":"2022-01-12T10:48:10","slug":"amesterdao-2-25-de-abril","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/avidalafora.com\/index.php\/2015\/09\/16\/amesterdao-2-25-de-abril\/","title":{"rendered":"Amesterd\u00e3o #2 (25 de Abril)"},"content":{"rendered":"<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">A chuva brindou-nos no segundo dia em Amesterd\u00e3o. Na verdade n\u00e3o foi s\u00f3 a chuva, foi tamb\u00e9m o vento e o frio. O dia come\u00e7ou cedo, como come\u00e7am todos quando andamos em viagem a conhecer e a descobrir. A cidade pela manh\u00e3 \u00e9 pouco frequentada, \u00e9 dif\u00edcil achar um s\u00edtio para tomar o pequeno almo\u00e7o (sentado, sem ser uma lojinha de rua com um balc\u00e3o e uma mesa alta). Em t\u00e3o poucos dias pensei v\u00e1rias vezes &#8220;se estes holandeses apanhassem aqui uma pastelaria como as nossas, com montras de bolos, at\u00e9 lhe chamavam um figo!&#8221;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Oito e pouco da manh\u00e3 e as bicicletas j\u00e1 circulam, poucas, \u00e9 certo, mas sempre com aquele ar de quem vai cheio de pressa.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><!--more--><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2700\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_2480-e1439034472590.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_2480\" width=\"800\" height=\"800\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2701\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_9729-e1439034484291.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_9729\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" \/><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2668\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_1729-e1439027925548.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1729\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" \/><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2669\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_1731-e1439027915155.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1731\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Na nossa caminhada matinal a caminho do primeiro local de visita do dia pass\u00e1mos pela Westerkerk, uma igreja protestante onde est\u00e3o os restos mortais do pintor Rembrandt, que fica no bairro de Jordaan, o bairro que est\u00e1 mais na moda em Amesterd\u00e3o. Fica mesmo ao lado da casa de Anne Frank, \u00e0 beira do canal do Pr\u00edncipe (Prinsegracht), o canal que tem algumas das mais belas casas barco de toda a cidade.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2670\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_1732-e1439027901753.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1732\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" \/><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2671\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_1733-e1439027888236.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1733\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" \/><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2672\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_1734-e1439027874984.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1734\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" \/><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2673\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_1737-e1439027832220.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1737\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">A Casa da Anne Frank n\u00e3o era muito longe da nossa casa e foi por a\u00ed que come\u00e7\u00e1mos as visitas do dia. Apesar do que li na Internet a aconselhar a visita cedo pela manh\u00e3 para n\u00e3o apanhar filas intermin\u00e1veis, lev\u00e1mos com 2 horas de espera na fila, 2 horas ao vento, \u00e0 chuva e ao frio. Tent\u00e1mos, uma semana antes de partir para Amesterd\u00e3o, comprar bilhetes online mas j\u00e1 n\u00e3o havia para os dias em que pod\u00edamos ir.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Toda a gente que se preze j\u00e1 leu o famos\u00edssimo e terrivelmente ver\u00eddico &#8220;Di\u00e1rio de Anne Frank&#8221;. Localizada ao lado da Westerkerk, a Casa de Anne Frank \u00e9 um ponto de visita obrigat\u00f3ria em Amesterd\u00e3o. Foi efectivamente naquela casa que viveu a jovem Anne Frank e a sua fam\u00edlia escondidos numa \u00e9poca em que os judeus foram perseguidos nos Pa\u00edses Baixos. A fila para visitar a Casa estende-se pela rua, fa\u00e7a chuva, vento ou sol, todos querem visitar a casa onde Anne e a fam\u00edlia se esconderam durante dois anos, at\u00e9 serem denunciados e levados para os Campos de Concentra\u00e7\u00e3o.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">\u00c9 dif\u00edcil descrever o que se sente ao entrar num cen\u00e1rio que foi real, imaginar todas as situa\u00e7\u00f5es que a fam\u00edlia ali viveu e recordar muitas passagens do Di\u00e1rio que, mesmo tendo passado tantos anos desde a sua leitura, ainda continua bastante presente. \u00c9 marcante entrar ali, subir as escadas, ver os quartos, a cozinha, imaginar a fam\u00edlia ali e a ang\u00fastia e a ansiedade que sentiam por estarem escondidos, sem na verdade terem qualquer culpa, apenas por serem judeus.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2704\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_2483-e1439035023550.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_2483\" width=\"800\" height=\"800\" \/><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2705\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_2484-e1439035081828.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_2484\" width=\"800\" height=\"800\" \/><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2706\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_2486-e1439035126728.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_2486\" width=\"800\" height=\"800\" \/><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2707\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_2489-e1439035187713.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_2489\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" \/><br \/>\nA visita deve ter demorado pouco mais de uma hora mas sa\u00edmos calados, sensibilizados e a digerir o que vimos e ouvimos.<br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2708\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_9736-e1439035233956.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_9736\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" \/><br \/>\nSeguimos a p\u00e9 e sempre \u00e0 chuva pelo canal do Pr\u00edncipe, o canal que tem as casas-barco mais bonitas da cidade. Continu\u00e1mos, sempre a p\u00e9, e encontr\u00e1mos, por acaso, um mercado de rua que pensamos ser o Noordermarkt, cheio de coisas que apetece provar e outras tantas (velharias e afins) que apetece levar para casa, com uma atmosfera descontra\u00edda e acolhedora.<br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2709\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_2498-e1439035293440.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_2498\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" \/><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2710\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_2499-e1439035340932.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_2499\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" \/><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2711\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_2500-e1439035392623.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_2500\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" \/><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2712\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_2501-e1439035435105.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_2501\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" \/><br \/>\nContinu\u00e1mos a deambular pela cidade e encontr\u00e1mos outro mercado, que n\u00e3o sei identificar, mas nessa rua existia uma Pizzaria (Capri) que nos vendeu um belo de um repasto mesmo na rua desse mercado, na esquina da NorderKerk Straat.<br \/>\n\u00c0 tarde, mesmo com alguns pingos de chuva, opt\u00e1mos por fazer uma viagem de barco pelos canais, para ver a cidade de uma outra perspectiva. A viagem custou 16\u20ac por adulto e durou cerca de 75 minutos. O barco era coberto, foi o que nos valeu, porque a chuva teimava em n\u00e3o dar tr\u00e9guas.<br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2674\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_1745-e1439027751408.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1745\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" \/><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2675\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_1746-e1439027739978.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1746\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" \/><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2676\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_1748-e1439027728856.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1748\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" \/><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2677\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_1753-e1439027717606.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1753\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" \/><br \/>\nEm cima o Centro de Ci\u00eancia NEMO.<br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2678\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_1755-e1439031528100.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1755\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" \/><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2679\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_1757-e1439031615350.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1757\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" \/><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2680\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_1763-e1439031625784.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1763\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" \/><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2681\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_1764-e1439031636875.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1764\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" \/><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2682\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_1765-e1439031656860.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1765\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" \/><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2683\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_1768-e1439031729619.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1768\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" \/><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2684\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_1769-e1439033630256.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1769\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" \/><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2685\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_1771-e1439031897212.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1771\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" \/><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2686\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_1772-e1439032309849.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1772\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" \/><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2687\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_1774-e1439032322588.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1774\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" \/><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2689\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_1779-e1439034160755.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1779\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" \/><br \/>\nEm cima o edif\u00edcio da Nationale Opera &amp; Ballet.<br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2690\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_1781-e1439034180632.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1781\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" \/><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2691\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_1784-e1439034194850.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1784\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" \/><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2692\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_1792-e1439034204747.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1792\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" \/><br \/>\nAmesterd\u00e3o \u00e9 claramente uma cidade de pontes.<br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2693\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_1797-e1439034214740.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1797\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" \/><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2694\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_1803-e1439034225331.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1803\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" \/><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2695\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_1804-e1439034236174.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1804\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" \/><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2696\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_1807-e1439034246402.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1807\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" \/><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2697\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_1811-e1439034256871.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1811\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" \/><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2698\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_1818-e1439034265573.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1818\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" \/><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2713\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_1833-e1439035647510.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1833\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" \/><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2714\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_1834-e1439035712362.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1834\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" \/><br \/>\nO dia manteve-se cinzento mas isso n\u00e3o nos demoveu, armados de chap\u00e9us de chuva continu\u00e1mos a visita \u00e0 cidade. Havia festa na Pra\u00e7a Dam, talvez por ser o fim de semana da maior festa da cidade, a festa do Rei. A fome apertou e nada melhor que experimentar a comida de rua na Pra\u00e7a Dam. Abaixo, o grelhador mais espectacular que j\u00e1 vi, comida sempre quentinha e saborosa. Quem disse que temos de comer comida saud\u00e1vel nas f\u00e9rias? Uma vez n\u00e3o s\u00e3o vezes&#8230; Ainda nos demor\u00e1mos a ver os carroceis da Pra\u00e7a, alguns deles capazes de fazer saltar o est\u00f4mago pela boca \u00e0s pessoas. Pelo sim, pelo n\u00e3o, mantivemos uma certa dist\u00e2ncia de seguran\u00e7a.<br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2715\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_2528-e1439035754872.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_2528\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" \/><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2716\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_2530-e1439035835617.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_2530\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" \/><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2717\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_2531-e1439035873473.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_2531\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" \/><br \/>\nAbaixo a Igreja Velha, que fica mesmo no meio do Red Light Disctrict. Caricato, n\u00e3o \u00e9?<br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2718\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_2532-e1439035915519.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_2532\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" \/><br \/>\nThe Bulldog, um dos coffeeshops mais conhecidos da cidade.<br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2719\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_2540-e1439035961313.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_2540\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" \/><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2720\" src=\"https:\/\/www.avidalafora.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_2541-e1439036008675.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_2541\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" \/><br \/>\nFoi um dia com muitos quil\u00f3metros nas pernas, muitas horas em p\u00e9, muita informa\u00e7\u00e3o para absorver e um misto de sensa\u00e7\u00f5es: seria capaz de viver nesta\u00a0cidade ou n\u00e3o?<\/p>\n<span class=\"synved-social-container synved-social-container-share\"><a class=\"synved-social-button synved-social-button-share synved-social-size-24 synved-social-resolution-single synved-social-provider-facebook nolightbox\" data-provider=\"facebook\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\" title=\"Share on Facebook\" href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/sharer.php?u=https%3A%2F%2Favidalafora.com%2Findex.php%2Fwp-json%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fposts%2F2665&#038;t=Amesterd%C3%A3o%20%232%20%2825%20de%20Abril%29&#038;s=100&#038;p&#091;url&#093;=https%3A%2F%2Favidalafora.com%2Findex.php%2Fwp-json%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fposts%2F2665&#038;p&#091;images&#093;&#091;0&#093;=https%3A%2F%2Favidalafora.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2015%2F09%2FIMG_1767-e1442401237118.jpg&#038;p&#091;title&#093;=Amesterd%C3%A3o%20%232%20%2825%20de%20Abril%29\" style=\"font-size: 0px;width:24px;height:24px;margin:0;margin-bottom:10px;margin-right:10px\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" 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